Transforming your hair can be an enjoyable experience, but navigating the terminology and subtleties of various hair coloring options can sometimes be perplexing, particularly in the realm of hair color. With a plethora of hair color terms to keep track of, including highlights, toner, balayage, and hair gloss, among others, it can be challenging to decipher, especially if you’re conducting your research at home or contemplating a DIY hair dye project. One of the terms that may have caught your attention is “semi-permanent” versus “demi-permanent” hair color, and you may be wondering about the distinctions between them.
When you peruse the hair color aisle, you may encounter bottles labeled “semipermanent” or “demi-permanent hair color,” and these designations can significantly impact the outcome of your hair color and, more importantly, how long it will endure. To gain insights into the disparity between these two types of hair dye, we turned to Matt Rez, a celebrity hairstylist and global ambassador for Moroccanoil, renowned for his work with clients like Hailey Bieber, Sydney Sweeney, Adele, Jennifer Coolidge, and many others. With his expertise, you can trust his insights. Continue reading for a comprehensive breakdown.
Distinguishing Between Semi- vs. Demi-Permanent Hair Colour
The primary difference between demi- and semi-permanent hair color lies in the duration of pigment retention. According to Rez, “Semi-permanent color washes out within a few washes, depending on the color used and the hair’s porosity before coloring.” It’s an excellent choice if you want to experiment with a new look or recreate a specific appearance for a special event. While it lasts longer than the temporary hair pigments often found in party stores (which tend to transfer onto everything), it still fades relatively quickly.
“Demi-color should last for approximately 20 washes,” Rez notes. This makes it an attractive, longer-lasting option for those seeking to enhance their hair color. We will delve deeper into these two types of dye below.
Understanding Semi-Permanent Hair Colour
The durability of hair dye is influenced by how deeply the color penetrates the hair cuticle. Rez explains, “Semi-permanent colors are non-oxidative and are not mixed with developers or processing solutions.” He adds, “They are a direct dye and stain the hair.” Because this dye rests on the hair shaft’s surface rather than penetrating it, it washes out relatively quickly.
Rez points out that semi-permanent hair color is ideal for what he terms “fantasy colors” (playful, temporary transformations) or for those looking to enhance their hair color at home. “They are excellent for individuals who want to add a hint of color, intensify the vibrancy of bleached hair, or experiment with color with minimal commitment.” If you’re uncertain about a new look, semi-permanent dye provides a low-risk way to test it out.
“There are also clear semi-colors like Moroccanoil Colour Depositing Masks ($29), which provide an incredible shine and include a built-in treatment to make the hair exceptionally reflective and healthy,” Rez notes. Other noteworthy options include dpHUE Gloss+ Medium Brown Semi-Permanent Hair Colour ($35) and Good Dye Young Semi-Permanent Hair Dye ($17).
Understanding Demi-Permanent Hair Colour
As the more potent option of the two, demi-permanent hair color does penetrate the hair cuticle. Rez clarifies, “Demi-color is a non-ammoniated, no-lift formula combined with a processing solution.” He continues, “Demi-colors slightly lift the cuticle, allowing the color to reside within it.” By infiltrating the outermost layer of the hair cuticle, this type of color can endure for about 20 washes, but it does not penetrate deeper, as permanent hair dye does.
“Demi-colors are ideal for individuals seeking longer-lasting results but who do not want to commit to permanent color,” Rez emphasizes. This type of dye works wonders for overall color toning, imparting shine to the hair, concealing gray hair, and providing a subtle enhancement to your natural shade. Some notable options for demi-permanent dye include Clairol Natural Instincts Clairol Demi-Permanent Hair Colour Cream Kit ($10) and Wella Colour Charm Demi-Permanent Hair Colour ($8).
While it’s recommend seeking the expertise of a trained professional at a hair salon, if you decide to experiment at home, it’s essential to educate yourself about the available options and their characteristics.