With LED masks becoming a staple in skincare routines, especially after being spotted on the likes of Emily in Paris, Victoria Beckham, and Trinny Woodall, consumers are asking: Do these devices really work, and are they worth the investment? To answer these questions, we spoke with skincare expert Sinead Gallagher, co-founder of Renew Skin Clinic and the brand Skin Krush.
A Brief History of LED Light Therapy
The concept of LED light therapy for skincare dates back to the 1990s when NASA began researching its potential to aid wound healing and tissue growth in space. This research led to the development of LED treatments used in professional settings to promote collagen production, reduce fine lines, and address issues like acne, scarring, and eczema. While the benefits of professional LED treatments are well-documented, at-home devices have raised questions about their effectiveness.
How LED Light Therapy Works
At-home LED devices typically use red, blue, and sometimes yellow light. Experts say red light helps reduce inflammation and stimulates collagen production, while blue light targets acne-causing bacteria. Yellow light, though less researched, is believed to improve skin sensitivity and hydration.
Each light color operates at different wavelengths, measured in nanometers (nm). The higher the wavelength, the deeper the light penetrates the skin. Blue light, for example, operates at 415nm and reaches just below the surface, while red light at 630-660nm targets the dermis to enhance cellular renewal. Near-infrared light, which exceeds 760nm, can even penetrate the subcutaneous layer to stimulate collagen and elastin production.
What to Look for When Choosing an LED Mask
Gallagher explains that while the wavelengths of at-home devices often match those used in professional treatments, the biggest difference lies in the number of bulbs and their placement. Salon devices typically feature bulbs that are closer together, offering more even coverage. At-home masks can have anywhere from fewer than 100 bulbs to over 1,600, with prices ranging from under €20 to as much as €1,700.
For a more targeted treatment, hand-held wand-like devices are available that allow users to focus on specific areas of concern.
Key Factors to Consider: Energy Density and Power
In addition to wavelength, energy density—the amount of light energy emitted by each bulb—is another crucial factor. Gallagher advises looking for at-home devices that emit 30mW of power for red light and 40mW for blue light, which are the EU’s maximum limits for at-home devices. By comparison, professional machines may deliver up to 70mW. “Think of it like having a better charger for your phone,” Gallagher notes.
How Long Before Seeing Results?
While LED masks are touted as a quick fix, Gallagher emphasizes the importance of patience and consistency. “If you’re expecting amazing results after two weeks, that’s unrealistic,” she says. “It’s a healing process, similar to how long it takes for a cut or burn to heal.” For those with more pigmentation or fine lines, results may take longer. Gallagher recommends using the mask consistently for at least six weeks. While results may not be dramatic, users can expect improvements in skin texture, brightness, and overall appearance.
Does Skincare Impact LED Mask Effectiveness?
To maximize the effectiveness of an LED mask, it should be used on clean, dry skin. Any makeup or skincare products may interfere with the light’s ability to penetrate the skin. Active ingredients like retinol can also cause irritation, so it’s essential to cleanse thoroughly if using the mask in the morning after applying retinol the night before.
Popular At-Home LED Masks
Several brands offer at-home LED masks with varying features and price points. Skin Krush’s LED masks, for example, come in two versions: the Clear and Calming mask with red and blue light and the Rejuvenating mask with red and near-infrared light. Both feature 132 bulbs and operate at the EU’s recommended energy density. The masks also have an overhead strap for convenience and automatically shut off after 10 minutes.
Haumea’s Tri-Booster LED device, priced at €189.99, combines three LED lights with a jade stone that heats up and vibrates. The device shuts off after six minutes, and users can switch between colors. Haumea recommends pairing the device with a sheet mask or serum for added benefits.
Dr.Jart+ Ceramidin Facial Barrier Mask (€9.95) is another popular option that can be used before, during, or after LED treatments. This sheet mask is enriched with ceramides, panthenol, and glycerine to hydrate and soothe the skin, making it an excellent complement to LED light therapy.
Conclusion
At-home LED masks are an accessible way to incorporate light therapy into your skincare routine, but they are not a magic solution. With the right device and a consistent skincare routine, they can help improve skin texture, reduce inflammation, and enhance overall radiance. However, for optimal results, it’s important to be patient, follow the device’s instructions carefully, and choose a high-quality product.
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